Caperberry is one restaurant that I have rated somewhere among the highest consistently over multiple visits and meals. They have a certain passion and precision which ensures that standards of food and service are considerably higher than competing culinary parlours and, more importantly, maintained.
The new menu begins with something reminiscent of what Chef Saha revels in; molecular play – A mango spherification. An amusing start. Excites, intrigues and yet doesn’t anywhere near satiate.
Seafood Rings and Chicken Kiev follow next. It may appear a tad bland to some but still packs a wholesome bite. Think of it as the most casual course in an otherwise engineered fine-dining menu.
Pan-Seared Foie Gras (Goose Liver) with Gazpacho: this was most unusual so far. Sceptical I was – why pair a greasy meaty liver with a cold soup I asked myself? – but the mix somehow works. Almond and garlic gazpacho serves as a mild cut to the seared fg. Very enjoyable. Done to perfection. That means, you will like it at first bite.
Green Pea Soup with Green-Pea Gazpacho and Beetroot Foam: Quirky mix of hot and cold of same Flavours. I don’t quite have a reaction as elated as in previous courses to it. Leaves me wondering. I am not a fan for repeats in a menu (2 gazpachos one after another, same flavours served at two temperatures simultaneously) and hence am left feeling a bit lacking here.
Lemon Foam Prawn and Veggie Fettucini: Post that, we are back on track and this is a good refreshing lil’ number. I must mention I feel well fed by now. But I sense I a not exactly close to the end.
Melon Sorbet: Finally, a natural tasting sorbet! Most indian gelaterias churn out a sorbet as if from a lab and with subtle flavours like melon, this is only worsened. Chef Saha has some neat trick here. Try the sorbet on its own, even outside the menu if you can. You can’t but help feel it is something that is tasty and yet healthily refreshing.
Smoked Duck with Poached Pear in Wine: Lovely dish. Worth the build up and the wait. Hearty and wholesome and yet stylish. Well executed. The fact that both me and my friend lapped it up and were mopping the plate with bread should stand out as an obvious sign that the dish went down rather well.
Spanish Vanilla Flan With Churros and Spicy Chocolate. Looks like the start of a whole new level of edible table decoration. 🙂
On the whole, the menu is satisfying and showcases the talents of Chef Saha and his team as also the philosophy behind this outlet well. And it always helps that the man in front is the very charming Vishal Nagpal who will anyways make any dish taste slurpa-licious.
January 10, 2011 9:22 pm
I wanted to contact you since I always enjoy your candour on this blog and what you write for the Wine Society of India and wanted to ask for your help.
I work for a negociant company in Bordeaux partly owned by Hubert de Bouard at Chateau Angelus. I’d love to work more with Indian importers of Bordeaux wines but am finding it difficult to get in touch with the right people / companies. We work with a really nice guy in New Delhi but that’s all for the moment.
I thought you’d be a great person to contact for advice and hope you don’t mind me getting in touch like this and for my mercenary intentions.
The next time you come to Bordeaux I’d be delighted to invite you to dinner.
Bordeaux Vins Selection
January 11, 2011 6:47 pm
thank you for your encouragement; when things go pear-shaped i will have something to blame now for egging me on so.
please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and let’s see what we can put together for you.